Socialization is a huge buzzword in the puppy raising and training world. Most people think it’s just getting your puppy around as many things as possible. But it’s SO much more. Socialization has to be done right because bad socialization is worse than no socialization. In this blog post, we’re going to go over how to socialize your puppy – the right way.
What is it?
Socialization is the developmental process whereby puppies familiarize themselves with their constantly changing surroundings. It is how they work out what is safe and good as opposed to what is dangerous and not-so-good.
Anything you want your puppy to cheerfully accept as an adult—people of all kinds, animals, things, and situations—you must introduce her to often and in a positive manner in the first 6 months of her life. Then you have to make sure she stays comfortable with all these new things.
But puppies love everything already!
Sure, they do. Until the early stage of their development draws to a close. At that point, they become wary of other dogs if they have met too few. And down the road, puppies can become shy or growly around children or strangers, too, unless they have met and enjoyed meeting a bunch of them.
Under-socialized dogs are at much greater risk of developing all sorts of behavioral problems stemming from fear—aggression, agoraphobia, and reactivity towards certain people and animals, for example.
Teach your puppy that the world is safe and prevent behavior problems in the future.
When is it safe to socialize??
In the past many pet professionals advocated keeping puppies sequestered to their homes until after the final vaccinations at 12-16 weeks. Unfortunately some still do. However, this advice proved to be devastating to puppies’ behavior. Imagine if you never took your toddler anywhere, and they never experienced new people, places, or experiences outside your home. You can guess what would happen when it’s time to start kindergarten! There would be constant fear, meltdowns, and that child might not ever reach her full potential socially. Yet that’s the equivalent of what dedicated pet parents have been told to do for years.
I do understand and agree with the desire to protect puppies from disease. As breeders, we’re religious about that. We also consider behavioral health to be vitally important to our puppies’ quality of life. The good news is, it’s possible to properly socialize your puppy WITHOUT jeopardizing their physical health.
Here’s how puppies develop immunity. In the first 18-24 hours after birth, puppies absorb antibodies through colostrum from the dam. Because the dam is vaccinated and has antibodies to diseases like parvovirus, she passes on those antibodies to her puppies, protecting them from disease while their immune systems are developing. Amazing, right? The catch is that as long as puppies are carrying those antibodies, a vaccine would not be effective. The truth is, it only takes one vaccination to give a puppy immunity. But it has to be given after the maternal antibodies have faded. That’s why we give puppies a series of shots, starting at 6-7 weeks, when the maternal antibodies begin to fade. Veterinarians continue to administer shots, usually every 3 weeks, until the puppies reach 14-16 weeks, at which point we can be certain that all maternal antibodies have faded and the puppy is fully protected by the vaccine.
So what does this mean for socialization timing? It can be confusing, especially if your veterinarian is telling you to keep your puppy in lockdown. The American Veterinary Society for Animal Behavior (AVSAB) has published an excellent statement, detailing when it safe to take your new puppy out in public. You can download that statement here. My approach is this. Take the first week after your puppy comes home to let them settle in and bond with your family. That’s a lot of novelty right there, and you should take it slowly, following the socialization methods outlined in the next section. At nine weeks, your puppy will receive their 2nd vaccination. After that, you are good to start introducing them to dogs who you know are vaccinated. If you’re lucky enough to have friends or family who own calm, friendly dogs, arrange a playdate at your home. Always let them meet through a barrier like a baby gate or x-pen, so the puppy has an out and doesn’t get overwhelmed with the situation. Have as many human visitors over as possible, and take your puppy to visit friends’ homes. After the 2nd vaccination, you can also start carrying your puppy in a pack to pet-friendly stores or parks and letting them take in all those sights, sounds, and smells. If you’re concerned about people petting your puppy in public, carry a bottle of hand sanitizer for them to use first. Until your puppy is fully vaccinated, avoid setting them down in areas where the public brings their dogs. This especially includes the grassy areas outside pet-friendly stores or at rest areas.
To sum it all up, it’s totally fine to bring your puppy around other dogs after the 2nd vaccination, as long as you know the dogs are vaccinated. What you want to avoid is bringing your puppy to public dog-friendly areas, where you have no idea if every dog was vaccinated. Socialization is about positive experience with novelty of all kinds, but people tend to get hung up on keeping them away from other dogs and skip socialization altogether. If you get creative, there are plenty of ways to safely socialize your puppy.
How to socialize your puppy.
- Think about the things your puppy will see every week as an adult: Visit those places, see those people, or experience those things now.
- Help your puppy form positive associations: Cheer and praise her when she encounters something new. Offer a treat whenever possible.
Step 1. If your puppy seems even a bit nervous, move a little distance away, give her treats, and then walk away—anything she is unsure about should be encountered in short bursts.
Step 2. As soon as your puppy seems more relaxed, try again. As she sees or hears the thing that scared her before, start your cheerful praise and break out the treats.
Step 3. If your puppy did not seem nervous with the new thing or acts curious about it after she has been treated, go back and let her investigate a little more. Again, praise and treat.
Training Tip: When you move away from any new thing, go quiet and stop the treats. We want your puppy to learn that the presence of the thing is what makes you give her the food. That way, she begins to associate the food with the new experience and realizes that, “Hey, that new thing isn’t so bad after all.”
Do it every day. For socialization to be effective, your Miniature Schnauzer pup needs to be getting out to experience the world every day. Even if it’s just a short trip to the park, that counts. The most critical time to do this is up until around 14 weeks. But even after that time, your puppy should still be getting out and about several times a week. If you socialize your puppy for a few weeks, and then leave him at home for a few months, you’ll lose the benefit of all that hard work you put in early on.
PUPPY SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST
Record your puppy’s reaction to the new things he sees on your checklist. Using the chart and scoring system below, focus first on any areas where your puppy receives a 1-3. Then work on the 4’s until your socialization checklist is full of 5’s—he’s seen it all and he loves it all.
1 – Overarousal: Growl, nip, bark, struggle (for handling), or lunge
2 – Avoid: Struggle, hide, try to get away, won’t approach, or hesitant to approach
3 – Freeze: Holds still (but not eating), non-exploratory, moving slowly or acting sleepy when they shouldn’t be tired
4 – Calm, relaxed, explores the object or environment, playful, focused on the food
5 – Calm, relaxed, explores the object or environment, playful,
even without food
Socialization can be a bit overwhelming. But always keep in mind that you are raising your Miniature Schnauzer pup to be a confident, happy, well-behaved companion.
Want a puppy that is well-mannered when greeting other dogs when you’re out and about? Read our blog post here.
